Bhutan - April 2009

This was a 3 week Exodus holiday in the Royal Kingdom of Bhutan in the Eastern Himalayas, including 14 days of camping.

Trek leader was Pasang Lama, our Bhutan guide was Sagar Gurung. We also had 5 cooks, and 4 muleteer/yakmen. The other trekkers were as follows:

  . . . Laurent Dupuis, IT engineer, from London
  . . . Mike Chapman, retired, from Derbyshire
  . . . Nicola Fleming, solicitor, from London
  . . . Oonagh Meade, solicitor, from Dublin
  . . . Peter Patton, benefits consultant, from London
  . . . Richard Bowens, fund manager, from London

Click on any picture to enlarge to full screen.

Trek Summary
Bhutan is an unusual and special country. The country is about the size of Switzerland and is entirely mountainous, containing wonderful trekking opportunities. Tourists are deliberately limited by the Bhutanese Government (currently at 10,000 pa), and pay a sizeable daily tourist tax for visiting the country. A Bhutanese guide is required at all times. This trek was a point to point trek, starting where one road ends, and finishing at the end of another road, still being built. In between, there is a vast amount of natural forest and mountain highlands, with snow-capped peaks, including just a few isolated communities. We had 3 high passes to traverse, at about 5000 metres high, before we come down to relax in Gasa Hot Springs, and return back to Paro via the capital city of Thimpu. What is particularly encouraging about Bhutan is that neither begging nor significant poverty seem to exist. No shanty town buildings were seen the entire trek. Indeed ALL the houses, old and new, in the country and the cities, were magnificently built. Education and health were entirely free of charge. How can this be? Beneficent rule by the King and the Government over a prolonged period, but particularly the last 20 years, seems to be the main answer. Bhutan has 3 main revenue-earning exports, hydro-electric power, timber and cement. We never saw actual signs of these industries, but much foregn revenue is earned, and the proceeds are well directed.
April 6 - Arrival in Paro
Paro is the only airport in Bhutan. Drukair is the only carrier licensed to take off at Paro, and has the grand sum of 4 airplanes.			Like many Bhutan cities Paro is dominated by its Dzong (fortified monastery). The first afternoon we get a couple of hours to look around a bit.
Paro Dzong seen from its river approach.			General view over Paro.
April 7 - Acclimatise in Paro
The trip is planned to coincide with Paro Festival, which we attend for a few hours in the morning, followed by a visit to Paro museum. In the afternoon we stretch our legs by hiking up to Tiger's Nest.
Meet Sagar our Bhutanese guide. It is Festival day, and all Bhutanese are required by law to wear national dress, when in public. The main garment is called a gho. The cuffs and the scarf are part of it, being different coloured for men and women. Many more costumes later.			Before joining the festival we go inside Paro Dzong. The inside is as ornate as the outside. There is tremendous detail in the woodwork of all Bhutanese buildings, old and new.
The few rooms of the dzong we visited had large murals painted on the walls. Sagar was expert at explaining all the characters and symbols involved.			I think the general theme of this one is that we should each use our given skills to help each other, in harmony.
The dzong is home to the local monks,			senior and junior.
Likely as it's Festival day, a procession of monks is soon under way, sounding their trumpets.			Another beficiary of the dzong: a massive bees' nest high up in the roof. (Budhists wouldn't want to kill the bees).
We now join the crowds as they flock in to watch the Festival dancing. All our dressed in their finest national costumes,			and very colourful they are too.
English is used all over. This message is for the locals, (not tourists or the monks).			The dancing is performed in front of this building, near the dzong. See those wonderful Tibetan horns on the roof,
here in close-up, making a continuous deep reverborating sound.			The dances are are performed by monks in elaborate costumes, and are re-enactments of local folklore.
The audience follows very attentively, and much of it is light-hearted and jocular.			The dancing can also be fast and acrobatic.
People had come from long away, and were here for the day, watching all from vantage points on the nearby hillside.			I much enjoyed minging in this crowd, and taking a few photos of these people having their day out.
They were totally relaxed about being snapped by an interloping tourist.			Though, this older guy deliberately wanted his picture taken when he was posed and ready for it.
One more from the crowd.			The viewing slope also provided another viewpoint to the nearby dzong, now showing its gleaming golden rooves, against a darkening sky.
Something else which was going on was a running battle of pea-shooters among the young boys. They were particularly keen to get a shot at the monk-boys if they could, and the monk-boys were retaliating from the relative safety of a nearby building.			In the afternoon it is a short trip to see Takstang Dzong better known as the Tiger's Nest. What a place to erect a monastery!
We have some 300 metres to climb. Part way up we pause by a large prayer wheel. Time to meet some of the trekkers. This is Oonagh.			This is Nicola.
Next, our jovial Frenchman, Laurent.			and Peter, friend of mine from New Malden Squash club.
A closer view, as we approach the Tiger's Nest. (It did then rain, and kept raining).
April 8 - The trek starts at Drukyl
Just one hour's drive from Paro, and the road ends at Drukyl. Here we meet the mules get loaded with all our luggage and equipment. Then we move off up Paro vallley, towards our first camp site.
There is a common architectural style to all the Bhutanese buildings. They have extremely solid rooves, and solid wooden frames to the windows, which are always shaped as here. The walls are often decorated, and strange certainly to us, the phallus is a favourite when decorating door-ways.			While the mules were being loaded with our luggage, we spent 45 minutes taking a look over a ruined dzong at 'end of the road' Drukyl. This view from below.
This view from inside the dzong.			Nicola, and tree of prayer flags, in the dzong.
That's me in the tree,			and this is .
The trek starts by walking near the river in Paro valley.			It is not long before we see our first major peak, which will be with us a few days. This is the snow covered peak of Mt. Chomolhari (7320 m).
This is the first of many river crossings. The bridges are well made.			We begin to see bright red rhodo-dendrons in among the other trees.
As we meet a house under construction, it is very clear just how solid and well-constructed these new houses are.			A favourite pastime of the young boys, and the nation as a whole, is archery. These two were pretty accurate on their target.
Our camp, and the next few days trekking, are in Jigme Dorji National Park
April 9 - We walk by Paro River
The day is very good exercise. While we remain close to Paro Chu (the river), the path is continually ascending and descending promontaries. A long and pleasant forest walk, as we gradually gain height.
The way is light forest.			There are plenty of these purple primulae to stimulate the eye.
Lunch is served in a pleasant spot near a stream.			A nice place to relax for a while,
and watch our mules go by.			By the time we reach camp, most of the tents are already up.
April 10 - Further ascent, and a snow wonderland
Less walking today. We start in a snowy wonderland. Our destination is Jangothang, also known as Cholmari base camp, at 4040 metres.
Yes, it was cold last night. This frosty sight met us as we emerged from our tents.			It was clear as the sun reached us that the snowy views this morning were going to be special.
The trees on the hillsides were cloaked in fresh snow,			while Cholmari looked cold and magnificent in the morning light.
Walking through the trees was stunning,			and many a photo was taken.
How could you not photo these scenes?			and this ...
and this ...			and this.
A further mountain view			In the end we walked out of the snow wonderland. It had been a wonderful hour's walking.
We take a rest, well does, and are glad to see our lunch pass us by. Lunch is cooked at camp after we leave, put in a large thermos, then catches us up while we trek. Not bad eh! These cooking boys walked fast.			Also in late morning, or at lunch, we usually see our mules (or yaks) pass us by. We had 22 mules at this stage, looked after by 4 muleteers, each owning 5 or 6 mules.
Lunch today was a bit different. We were entertained in a crofter's lodge. The lodge was of basic construction, but most certainly kept out the chill wind. we enjoyed the comfort of his fire and walls. All he needed was there.			This was our host.
Our destination today was Jangothang, also known as Cholmari base camp, a level site near the river. This was the only time on the trek we had others at our camp site.			I tried a bit of bird photography later in the day, and caught this fellow who proved to be called a Redstart.
April 11 - Acclimatisation at > 4000 metres
This day is reserved for acclimatisation. We stay at the same camp site tonight. We take an exercise walk in the morning ascending to 4600 meters. For acclimatisation it is good to 'walk high and sleep low'.
The start is relaxed. Our mules have come as far as they go, so they will depart today. View down the valley, a chorten is in the middle-ground.			This mountain is called Jichudrake (6974 m), but it is more commonly known as the Himalayan Matterhorn.
As we set off, this avalanche is seen on the Matterhorn.			It's a tough ascent up to 4600 metres. Group photo to mark our highest point. From the left: Richard, Peter, Laurent, , Mike, myself, Oonagh, Pasang, and Nicola.
The afternoon is free. There are yaks here, highly photogenic animals I think.			It is cloudy, and looks like it will rain. I go up towards the glacier at the foot of Chomolhari.
April 12 - Our first high pass, the Nyala La (4850 m)
Today we ascend 900 metres to our first high pass. If anyone is going to suffer High Altitude Sickness it is likely to be today. It will be a hard day's walk. Incidentally, it is Easter Day today.
The mules can't work at this altitude, so our 22 mules are replaced by 20 yaks, and they arrive exactly on cue.			The place is awash with yaks, as we leave.
It's a fine valley, but we will be climbing out of it, to the right.			At these heights we get to see so-called blue sheep, hardy mountain sheep, looking more like well fed goats to me.
Sagar, in contemplative mood, with the Matterhorn behind. Sagar enjoyed nothing more than talking philosophy, politics and science as we walked. (He now calls me E=MC squared).			This is the last stretch to Nyala La pass. Oonagh is arriving next, and those are our yaks catching us up fast.
At the pass, group photo time. That's 7 trekkers, plus Pasang and Sagar, and plus our 5 kitchen staff. Chief cook, a very important person for a good trek, is on the right, and he did well with the food.			Soon the yaks are up with us. They are led by the senior yak with a red decoration.
But they dally not a minute, and are straight down the other side.			From the top we get some excellent new views of the mountains to the north which separate Tibet from Bhutan.
As we start down, we soon notice there are vultures circling about.			And then we see why. There is a yak carcass that they are feeding on.
This being the northern side of the pass we also see a number of frozen waterfalls.			After a long descent we reach camp on open ground with more fantastic mountain views.
April 13 - The villages of Lingshi, Goyul and Chebisa
Relatively short walking today. We visit Lingshi Dzong and school, then pass by Goyul, and end with a picturesque camp site at Chebisa.
Lingshi Dzong is within view of the camp, some 200 metres up on the hillside. As we approach it, we see two helicopters flying the valleys. Bhutan does not have helicopters. These are for mountain rescue, and have flown in from India. They did not find their target, but presently returned from whence they came. The monks are out to watch the helicopters.			The dzong is approached from a ridge.
These prayer flag poles are often used to display the prayer flags. Also Nicola and Richard.			Once we reach the dzong, the monks chanting is very evident. The men-monks are chanting in the open courtyard. the boy-monks have a sort of descant (tinkly) chant, and we were allowed to observe and photo them while they chanted. Next time I really must add sound.
The dzong window is just another example of Bhutanese window architecture. Very beautiful, very distinctive, very functional.			On the far side of the dzong is Lingshi village. It's not much more than a Post Office, and a school, as we shall see.
Well, this is the Post Office. The door frame is protected in the usual way with two phalli, one on the tip of the other!			Next we visit the school, where the children were very ready to be photographed, her in the company of Sagar.
This was most of the children rounded up.			We continued on to the village of Goyul, where we lunched, but the weather became increasingly wet. Our final destination for the day was this very compact village called Chebisa, where we had a fine camp site right on the village green.
April 14 - Gobu La pass (4350 m)
We leave the small villages behind, and walk through high pastures to Gobu La pass, and then to camp at Shakshepasa (3980 m).
Our yaks rest in front of Chebisa, waiting for their loads.			Close up on the yaks.
Chebisa, like other villages, has its little host of prayer poles to ensure its good fortune. Look carefully and you can see that each pole is actually alive and sprouting new growth.			We have another pass to climb today, and leave Chebisa behind.
New mountain ridges come into view.			We see plenty more 'blue' sheep here.
At the pass we get great panoramic views of the mountain tops. Select the thumbnail, then select the picture to enlarge further, and use < and > to pan over the enlarged picture. The panorama is over some 300 degrees.
It's very peaceful here.			As we descend, the mountain is covered by low shrubby rhodo-dendrons. These rhodo-dendrons will bloom in a couple of months to cover the hillsides with a yellow mantle.
Lunch time, and as usual the yaks come trundling by, led by the colour sergeant. (Mules always pass as a column. Yaks just melee).			And here's our melee of yaks on the move. They don't hang about.
At camp I go find a few more birds. This is the Himalayan chaffinch.			And here's another brightly coloured fellow.
April 15 - Jhari La pass (4750 m)
Today we do the Jhari La pass, middle of the three high passes. We camp at Robluthang (4160 m).
As we ascend the mountain views are ever grander.			One mountain in particular maintains its mystery. This is Tiger Mountain, top enshrouded with cloud.
At Jhari La we get an enormous panaromic view including Tiger Mountain on the left. Click, then click again for the full panorama view.
We descend off the top before we take lunch, and our yaks pass us by again.			We then have a dodgy (bouncy) bridge to negotiate. Oonagh first.
No problem for Nicola.			Peter gets through as well.
April 16 - Highest pass, the Sinche La (5005 m)
It's a long hard day climbing 1000 metres to Sinche La, then descending the same distance to Lemithang. We are now in the Laya district, so watch out for those conical hats. Peter has been suffering diahorrea for several days now, and the pass will be really hard for him. But there's no way back from here. Pasang carries his backpack to make his walking bearable. I walk with Peter and Pasang, as we take our time with the ascent.
We get a brief view of a local fox.			The rest of the group give Peter a huge reception as he finally makes it to the top of the pass. Bless them all.
It's time for celebrations all round. Pasang, Peter, and myself. This was tough. But it's all (well mostly) down hill from here.			Oonagh and Nicola share the moment with our lunch boys.
Entente cordiale is alive and well between Switzerland () and France (Laurent)			As we descend, sure enough the first lady we see is wearing the famous conical hat. The hats are made from bamboo.
April 17 - We walk to Laya
A much easier day's walking. It is mostly downhill, and at lower altitude. At Laya we will be treated to an entertainment by the local women.
The sky is blue, the scenery is great. Roland, Laurent, and Pasang.			Checking out the butterflies. This is a Painted Lady, a pretty butterfly found all over Asia and Europe.
And we were now also seeing many Mountain Iris.			Also, these dark purple primroses.
The path was perched on the sloping mountain-side, at times hardly discernible. Richard admires the view.			Tiger Mountain seemed to attract the clouds. Finally we see him again, clear of the clouds.
And now we approach Laya, perched on its hillside.			Quite a bit of new building going on in Laya. This newly built house shows the wooden window casements before the decorating starts. This is a typical house, not one for the wealthy.
This is an older and fully decorated house. Look carefully, and you see a donkey entering the lower door.			The lady of the house is wearing the conical hat of the district.
The donkey's visit proved to be a short one!			You can see that keeping some flat ground free for camping may be contentious, but we do get a comfortable site in the village. Unfortunately the weather is turning wet.
These three young girls are highly curious that we should be settling down in tents.			The evening comes, and it is drizzly, but the singing Laya girls are up for a bit of entertainment. So a camp fire is lit, and this is a shot at capturing our entertainers. Later we all join in, processing round the fire, while the girls sing. Certainly something different.
April 18 - A glorious balcony walk to Chamtsa
The walking today is again at lower altitude. The path sits high on the hillside above a sizeable river. The woods and meadows are full of flowers.
As the sun gets up, there is still much mist and cloud, but lovely glimpses of the mountain peaks where it is clear.			Another glimpse of the mountains all around.
Another view from the camp-site at Laya.			Sometimes the paths looked impossibly muddy as here at Laya, but there always seemed to be enough stones and planks to avoid real trouble.
The trees and shrubs had much of this old man's beard. It can look quite ghostly.			Yellow shrubs began to appear, with a flower much like a snap-dragon.
View of the path.			Lots of the purple primulae on this section. Oonagh and Nicola stand among a few.
Close-up on the primulae.			And this is a Small Tortoiseshell butterfly on the primulae.
Since Laya, we found we had been adopted by Fido, who was very well behaved, and stayed with us until Gasa Springs. This is fairly common in trekking.			I couldn't help but be curious over this horse. The horse was fine, it just chose to do its browsing in a very boggy patch where it was literally up to its elbows (knees) in bog.
The path continues in pine forest. Peter, and Sagar.			We are back to mules again (18 at this stage), which pass us by.
There they go!			We have crossed many of these bridges, all built the same way, every one beautifully constructed.
This is a larger version, but built in the same way.			The camp at Chamtsa is another delighful spot near a river.
April 19 - A misty walk over Balela Pass to Gasa
The morning is initially sunny, but we are soon in a lot of mist, and the forest also becomes strange. Balela Pass is only 3740 metres, but we had a long ascent to reach the top. In the afternoon the mist continues as we go back down to the district capital, Gasa.
Last evening we could see that our mules had crossed the sizeable river. So, in the morning they had to be called back. It was surprising to me how calmly the mule would cross such a strong river.			Now that they are back, our mules tuck in heartily to a breakfast of bamboo shoots.
The bamboo was growing freely all over the forest.			Near the river we see a rather special bird, the Bhutanese Blue Magpie.
Another good find this morning was this large and impressive Bhutan Pheasant. We could only find him because he was announcing his presence by booming loudly.			Here, we were back in red rhodo-dendron territory, with lots of old man's beard in the trees.
The forest was full of gushing streams.			And another.
The scenery was impressive, and the mist made it surreal.			The mist has allowed monstrous mosses to form on the trees.
And underneath is a great mass of purple from a phlox-like plant			Here's the plant in close-up.
Another view of branches and moss from these woods.			It is noticeable that there are more mule trains on the path since Laya. This is a typical consignment including corrugated iron, now used for roofs in preference to planks and stones.
Still in the mist, we reach the top of this, our last pass. Oonagh, , and Nicola.			One wonders what is really written on all these prayer flags. Well, here's a sample.
April 20 - Gasa Springs, and our last camp
The heavy walking is done. Today we visit Gasa Springs, and then walk on to our last camp site. A new road is under construction to reach Gasa Springs. Our camp site is adjacent to the new road.
As we walk through Gasa, we note this board. It is very Bhutanese to be in pursuit of Gross National Happiness. Other nations can learn from them.			We pause for breath on the way down to Gasa Springs. Fido is still with us.
In the forest at lower altitudes leeches are a bit of a problem.			This is Gasa Springs. Laurent, and I were keen to go have a bathe, but the rest were not so keen, as the site in general was rather crowded, and full of rubbish. In fact the baths were perfectly clean and most enjoyable. There were three public baths with rooves, able to take about 12 people each.
Plenty of ravens at Gasa Springs. Mentioned mainly as the raven is Bhutan's national bird.			Camp is another nice flat field, next to nowhere except that the new road is close by.
April 21 - We travel by road to Thimpu via Punaka
The day should have been a 3 hour trip by bus to Punaka, where the plan was to see over Punaka Dzong, which is Bhutan's foremost museum, and then continue on to Thimpu. We got to Thimpu, but had dramas along the way.
We say goodbye to our kitchen staff and muleteers this morning as it is hotels from now on. Head chef on the left, assistant head chef in the green T-shirt, head muleteer on the right.			Our Exodus bus had duly arrived the previous evening, and was now ready to take us on our way.
We travel for just 1/2 hour on the new road in construction, and hit problem no 1. A landslide has happened overnight. The road is completely blocked.			This is the blockage seen from the other side (once we had skirted over it).
One further view from across the valley. It looked like half the roadway had been swept away, and we assumed this would take several days before traffic, and our bus, could pass by. (It was later confirmed to have been made passable just 9 hours later the same day!)			Pasang is quickly ordering taxis from Punaka (2 hours away) to come and meet us. Meanwhile we go up and over the obstruction ready to meet the taxis. Richard brought his Sainsbury's carrybag especially for this contingency.
Actually our real luggage was portered over for us, but they went too far down the road. Here Sagar returns with our temporary porters and our bags.			After about 2 hours our first taxi duly arrives. It is of course a LOT SMALLER than our coach.
News comes through that our second taxi has a had a major incident, and won't be arriving! Pasang orders the only taxi we have to be loaded up with our bags. We are then instructed to get ourselves in the taxi. It has seating for 7 + driver. We are 10. We seat 4 in the back and 4 in the middle. This still leaves Pasang, who promptly establishes himself on the luggage on the roof. This taxi is loaded crazy, but off we go...			We hadn't gone very far when our next problem arose. It was now 10:45, and the road was padlocked behind this sign.
The lock-keeper is found, and Sagar uses his influence to get the gate unlocked. Just a few hundred yards down the road and the road workers have scattered rocks across the road. Now the foreman has to be found to persuade the mechanical shovel driver to clear the way for us.			Once the right pressure is brought the mechanical shovel makes short work of clearing the way.
We get another locked gate opened, and then meet yet another load of earth and rocks spread across the road.			Again, the right word in the right ear and another mechanical shovel trundles along the road to our assistance.
There was a lot of earth in this one. The shoveller took 20 minutes to clear this patch. Overall we lost 3 hours in these blockages but were finally on our way again.			We are late arriving at Punaka, so won't be able to go into the museum in Punaka Dzong, considered the leading museum in Bhutan.
The Dzong is a wonderfully impressive building, well shown off by the Jacaranda trees lining its front.			It is another 3 hours to Thimpu, capital of Bhutan. This is our view of the city from the hotel balcony. The city looks smart, and so it is. No slums or poor housing will be found here.
A further view of Thimpu.
April 22 - The day in Thimpu, then return to Paro
In the morning we had visits scheduled for Thimpu. After lunch we have additional free time in Thimpu, then we take the coach back to Paro for the evening.
We first visit the Telecom Tower site as it is a high point overlooking the city. Actually it is too hazy for a good view of the city. What is much more noticeable is the enormous number of prayer flags hung in this auspicious place. All high places are good for hanging prayer flags.			Next we visit the Takin zoo. The Takin is Bhutan's national animal. It is becoming scarce in the wild, and hence the zoo is to protect the species. A strange and lovable animal.
Then we visit Thimpu Handicrafts and Painting School, and very interesting it is. This class is making a variety of clay buddhas, copying from originals.			These girls are in a weaving class.
This class is embroidery,			and here the class is painting.
We also visited the Handicrafts Emporium to make souvenir purchases. It is another typical Bhutanese building.			I was much taken by the quality of painting found on almost all the buildings, both inside and outside. This example is from a shop's doorway.
And this detail is from inside the restaurant where we had lunch.
April 23 - We return to Kathmandu, where we have half the day free
Today we fly back to Kathmandu, and have most of the afternoon free.
Waiting at Paro airport, there are pictures of their much respected last 5 kings. The kings have served Bhutan very well.			On the return flight, those fortunate enough to be on the right side of the aircraft get some wonderful views of Everest.
I go for a wander in Kathmandu, where you can bump into sights such as this Stupa.			Inside one of the accessible temples.
They charge now for visiting Durbar Square, so I just took this one photo of Taleju Temple from the perimeter.			Kathmandu seems busier and more hectic than ever. The larger streets are full of cars, vans, rickshaws, motor cycles, and cyclists, as well as pedestrians.
The smaller streets are largely taken over by stall holders laying out there wares across the road!.			The shops sell an enormous assortment of goods. Here it is masks and puppets.
April 24 - A free day in Kathmandu
We have a free day in Kathmandu. Peter, Oonagh, Laurent and I opt for a taxi ride to Patan, 5 kilometres to the south of Kathmandu. It is the third largest city of Nepal, and has historic buildings and temples rather older than are found in Kathmandu. Very well worth the visit.
There are new budhas as well as the old. we bumped into this large and cheerful budha as we walked through Patan.			We visit the Golden Temple, tucked away off a small street.
This is a general view of Durbar Square, Patan.			Krishna Mandir Temple in Durbar Square. The temple is an active place for Buddhist worship.
A further general view of Durbah Square.			Biswonath Temple, Durbah Square.
The monuments are very accessible to locals and to tourists.			Looking more closely at the buildings there is much detail on the beams supporting the rooves.
We visit the museum in Durbah Square, of which this is the entrance.			There was much of interest in the museum. I was taken by this exhibit explaining how a detail brass carving would be made from a master image.
Next door to the museum was the local water supply. Patan was having a serious water shortage. The water supply was very meagre, and it would take many hours to fill all these water pots.			Patan was a complete mix of the old and new. They clearly respect the old temples and will leave them standing even if building all around.
Whether Patan or Kathmandu, the state of wiring in these cities is quite amazing. No wonder there are almost daily power cuts.
April 25 - Last day in Kathmandu
More time in Kathmandu, until we leave for the airport at 3:45. Then it's the long flight home, split by a 4 hour wait in Bahrain.
I spend the morning with , taking in Durbar Square. On the way picks up a bangle or two.			As we reach Durbar Square, this is Indrapur Temple, straight ahead.
This is a stone image of the godess Shiva, for whome many candles were being lit.			This is King Pratap Malla's column.
With Durbar Square visited, I seek a different experience for my last 2 hours in Kathmandu, and visit the Garden of Dreams in Thamel. This really is a good place to go to chill out, and forget the frenzy of the city.			Further view in the Garden of Dreams.
I read a book in this corner of the garden until it is time to leave.